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The AAPG/Datapages Combined Publications Database
Journal of Sedimentary Research (SEPM)
Abstract
The Problem of Beach Cusp Development
A. T. Williams
ABSTRACT
Cusp development at three Hong Kong beaches was observed during 1970/71, and measurements of cusp dimensions and sea state parameters obtained. Grain size distribution as well as permiability differences were found between horns and bays. There appeared to be a tentative correlation between the degree of bay exposure and cusp spacing. Statistical analysis revealed the predominance of swash length in explaining cusp spacing, and this together with wave period and breaker height, explained 55% of the spacing in the measured cusps. Breaching of an off-shore layer of Sargassum appeared to be a decisive factor in cusp formation at Stanley Bay. A depositional origin of horn accumulation was demonstrated by means of fluorescent tracers, and a distinction was observed between cusp development expressed by 'fierce' swash and gentle 'swash.'
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