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The AAPG/Datapages Combined Publications Database

Journal of Sedimentary Research (SEPM)

Abstract


Journal of Sedimentary Petrology
Vol. 45 (1975)No. 4. (December), Pages 852-865

Process-Response Patterns in Beach and Nearshore Sedimentation: I. Mustang Island, Texas

Richard A. Davis, Jr., William T. Fox

ABSTRACT

Two time-series studies of coastal processes were conducted along the coast of Mustang Island, Texas during October-November, 1971 and January-February, 1972. Patterns exhibited by winds, waves and longshore currents are similar to those observed in Lake Michigan (Davis and Fox, 1972). The dominating factor in controlling coastal processes along the Texas coast during the periods of study is barometric pressure. Large scale fluctuations in wind speed and breaker height occur as cold fronts ("northers") move across the area in an offshore direction. Abrupt changes in wind direction, breaker angle, and longshore current accompany the passage of these fronts.

The responses of beach and nearshore topography to waves and currents are similar to those observed on other coasts. High energy conditions created by the passage of fronts cause seaward displacement and erosion of the sand bar, whereas low energy conditions permit slow shoreward migration and build-up of the sand bar. Rip currents are commonly present and may cut channels in the sand bar. Changes in bar locations and form, however, do not show the regular and cyclic pattern observed in Lake Michigan.


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